NW Roanoke Shops 3351 Cubic Foot Gondola

As part of our Roster Expansion Series line of freight cars, the NW Roanoke Shops 3351 cubic foot gondola is the newest addition to hit the workbench. 

The prototype car was built by the Norfolk and Western Railway at their Roanoke Shops in Roanoke, VA.  Originally these cars were N&W class G-72A gondolas from 9/1972-7/1973 (N&W Series 188000-189249). Norfolk Southern rebuilt all of them in 1998 with new, taller sides to increase their capacity to 3351 cubic foot.  There are two phases of this car and the difference is located on the A and B ends where one style is ribbed and the other style is flat.  Norfolk Southern reclassed them as the G-72D's, G-72E's and G-72F's and then renumbered them.  These cars have been used to haul scrap metal, crossties, and have even been used to haul coal for mainline steam excursions (NKP 765). 

The model will be loosely based on the prototype car NS 197782.  With it's distinct brown center and black ends, this car was a standout when deciding how to paint our 3D model.  Now for all of you die hard rivet counters who must replicate every specific detail down to a scratch for a certain car number, DO NOT COME AFTER ME!  I have used my modeler's license here to create a unique car based on several prototypes combined into one.  

Below you will find photos of work on this model from start to finish.  This model is a test using spray paint as I have had a few customers say they used Rustoleum spray paints on some of their kits.  Since I have had several customers ask how to paint these kits without using an airbrush, I decided to complete a model using only Rustoleum spray paint products to better help those without an airbrush.

Starting with a Phase 1 gondola, sand any rough spots as needed.  I also apply masking tape over the coupler pocket and truck screw holes to prevent paint buildup in these areas which could lead to a not so perfect fit when attaching trucks and couplers.

The good news with Rustoleum spray paint is that they have a black primer which speeds up the painting process.  The primer dries extremely fast and took two coats for complete coverage.  Remember, the key to these types of spray paints are light, even coats to build up paint.  If you try to cover the model in one coat, small details will disappear as the layer of paint will be too heavy.

Next, it's time to mask off the car to prepare for the brown section as found on car 197782.  After applying the masking tape, I used a toothpick to burnish the tape to ensure no paint would seep through.

For the brown section, I went with Rustoleum Earth Brown camouflage spray paint.  Like the primer, this paint dried fast and again, two coats were plenty.  This brown was a touch darker than what I would have liked, but once weathered this section will stand out more.

I only masked the sides and ends in order to paint the inside brown as well for that rusty look.

After removing the masking tape I was pleased with the results.  Was it perfect?  Almost, but after weathering any imperfections shouldn't be noticed. 

Now, here is where I went off the rails (pun intended!) when it came to added decals.  I was ready to get this model completed to have for show in product listings, so I decided not to gloss clear coat before starting decals.  Absurd I know!  How will this work out?  Not a clue at this point, but hoping for the best!  I used a mixture of Shell Scale decals, Circus City Decals, and Blair Line graffiti decals to test the Rustoleum clear coat over a variety of decal brands. 

Once all decals were dry, I decided to spray the model with satin clear to blend the decals together.  Once dry, I went back over the model with matte clear to dull the model back down for weathering.  Of important note here - the Rustoleum clear sprays did dissolve some of the Norfolk Southern herald along the center section around some of the ribs.  As this will be a weathered model, this is not a problem.  However, when using Rustoleum products for a nonweathered car, I would apply all decals except the long logo, clear coat and then apply the logo decal which should blend in with a satin or gloss clear coat applied before. 

Weathering is a mix of washes by Monroe Models and powders from Pan Pastel.  After a white wash over the entire model, rust weathering wash and several shades of brown Pan Pastels were added to the center section.  I went over all black areas with black Pan Pastel powder to darken from the white wash to make the black appear as a newer paint job with the brown center left more aged.  The inside of the gondola was also brushed with Monroe Models rust weathering wash.  After all weathering was completed, the model was coated with matte clear once again to lock in all progress.

The last step will be to apply Scenic Rust to a few areas, especially along the ribs where the clear coat dissolved some of the Norfolk Southern herald.  This will hide any of the dissolved decal and make it appear as thought the paint has faded, flaked, and has been covered by rust.  I prefer Scenic Rust over oils as it is a real rust effect and is a much faster process without having to wait for oil paint to dry. The 3 step process involves applying the rust binder and letting dry.  Next, apply the rust powder over the binder and let dry.  Lastly, brush the developer over the rust powder and watch the rusting process begin.  I let each step dry for an hour before applying the next item of the Scenic Rust kit.